Zephyr Lodge Guatemala - The Good, The Bad and The Infinity Pool

2023 Update: Based on recent feedback since my last visit, I’ve made lots of changes to keep you guys updated!

When I was traveling through Guatemala I heard about Zephyr Lodge before I learned about Semuc Champey, the natural pools located deep in the Guatemalan jungle. Reviews are mixed on this place, through word-of-mouth and also online, but my temporary travel companions at the time were insistent on staying there so I decided to give it a try.

Read more about building great travel relationships while on your solo trip

The Rooms

Zephyr Lodge has a selection of dorms and private rooms available. I stayed in a dorm room situated next to the main area where the bar and restaurant are located but also got to check out the dorms that were further away as well. I also got to visit the private room of two guys I met while at Zephyr Lodge.

Dorm rooms

If you’re up for a party or will likely be staying up anyway then the rooms in the main building will be fine. If worse comes to worst then you should hopefully have some ear plugs anyway. It’s not terrible but if you’re a light sleeper then the noise will likely keep you awake. You can try to request the rooms that are further away but it’s not guaranteed.

These dorms are also located up some steep stairs so if you have any problems with mobility, definitely let them know when you’re booking.

The newer dorms that are located separate from the main building will be quieter and you don’t have to deal with the noise from the bar but if you need to get up to use the bathroom at night it is a bit of a walk .

The beds were comfy and there seemed to be enough electrical outlets for everyone. One downside was that there weren’t enough lockers in the room for everyone and we had to use the ones outside. I’m not a big fan of that but it was still safe.

Private Rooms

The private rooms are definitely worth it if you have the budget. Big comfy beds, boutique style rooms, private bathrooms, and they all have a big open-air deck or balcony looking out into the valley. They’re far enough away from the action that the noise shouldn’t be a problem but still within stumbling distance of the bar to make it back to bed safely.

The bar and restaurant

Zephyr Lodge offers a bar and restaurant for all meals during your stay. No outside food or drink is allowed and there is no kitchen for guest use.

The food isn’t the cheapest but I wouldn’t say it’s overpriced. You are in the jungle after all. There were some great choices and some that were a little bit bland. Chat with the other guests and see what’s good on the menu at the time.

There are wood-fired pizzas, freshly baked breads, burgers and also lots of vegetarian and healthier options. For me everything was great except for the mexican-inspired meals like the burrito.

All ordering is done by an electronic tab system and you pay for everything at the end. This can be a good or bad thing as it can be so easy to forget there’s any money involved and go crazy with the drinks only to get a shock at the end. Staff are always happy to give you an update of your bill during your stay.

Zephyr Lodge uses communal tables which are good for getting to know other guests when you’re on your own and there is a happy hour everyday from 6 pm to 8 pm which is also a great time to meet some other people and save some money.

View of the valley from the Lodge

Tours

Zephyr Lodge offers tours to the main sites in Lanquin as well as a Semuc Champey day tour. At the time of my stay they had recently made the decision to not include the caves tour section of the trip in their tour. We heard this was for different reasons including how dangerous the caves are (it’s a pretty risky trip) and recent thefts from the bags of guests while they were in the caves. Not sure what is actually true and they may now be offering the tour again as their website has the full package on their tour page.

Since we had heard such great things about the tour we decided to do as some other guests had done and book with a hostel located closer to the town. Because of this I don’t have any experience with the tours they offer but did hear some great things about their Lanquin River Tubing trip by the other guests.

There’s a sign-in sheet at reception to sign up for a tour and you should try to do it the night before so you don’t miss out on a spot.

Read more about my Semuc Chamey tour here or book your own local tour online through Get Your Guide.

Things to note

• You can now book Zephyr Lodge directly on Booking.com! No more stressing about whether you’re going to get a spot or not. They do book out fast though, so I strongly suggest booking as soon as you’ve decided to go.

• If they are booked up, there are a lot of other places to stay, including some that are right next to Semuc Champey. Greengo’s, El Retiro Lodge, and Ch'i Bocol Community Hostel are all highly rated. Check out Trip Advisor for even more places to stay in Lanquin.

• Wifi is not great. Don’t expect anything and you might be pleasantly surprised.

• There are some resident pets on the property. They don't usually bother guests but are there for a cuddle if you're missing you're missing your furry friends at home.

• Keep track of what you’re drinking and ordering throughout your stay. Many guests felt that they were being ripped off and there were things on their tab that they hadn’t ordered. Hard to prove when you’ve been staying there for a while and drinking up. My tab had a small error with my onward shuttle to Flores but it was quickly fixed up.

• Check out time can be a very busy time of the day. When you’re planning to check-out, make sure to be up with plenty of time to order and eat breakfast, pay for your bill and make your shuttle time. Almost every day that I was at Zephyr, there was a long line to pay, with up to a half hour wait. The day I checked out they opened breakfast almost 45 minutes late so it was a bit of a rush for those who were trying to be early but I was still one of the first few to check out. It didn’t really matter, though, because we still ended up waiting half an hour for our shuttle to show up and then a couple were yet another half an hour late after that. Again, just take the good with the bad. You’re in Guatemala, living the dream remember?

The Right Expectations

Zephyr Lodge is a great place to stay if you know what to expect and what you’re getting into. Remember that you’re in the middle of the jungle and supplies are limited. They might run out of a particular ingredient or not offer your favourite dish. Sure, it could be cheaper but with all the amazing amenities and stunning views it was worth it for me.

Zephyr can be a party hostel depending on the staff and the guests at the time. Some nights were quieter than others and some nights carried on and on. If you don’t want to party then just make sure to get a room further away and you should be fine. It’s nice and quiet during the day while everyone is away on day trips or just relaxing pool side.

Personally, my expectations were super low going in but I actually had a great time and stayed longer than expected.

Summary

Overall I think Zephyr is an excellent choice in Lanquin but does have its downsides. If you have the budget, their private rooms are great and include your own balcony overlooking the valley. The dorms are hit and miss. Comfortable beds but the dorms located near the bar are noisy at night until the party dies down. The shared showers have their own individual views of the jungle which is kind of cool as do some of the toilets. Everything is very clean and well maintained.

The infinity pool is really the attraction here. The pool has a stunning backdrop and a swim up bar. There’s a large sun deck for perfect days relaxing by the pool with a strong drink as well as a hot tub with very restrictive opening hours. Overall I recommend Zephyr Lodge. It’s a good place to stay for a couple of days, you can relax or party and have a good place to rest your head after a long day at Semuc Champey.

Zephyr Lodge details

http://zephyrlodgelanquin.com/

Private Rooms - From Q 460 per night

Deluxe Rooms - From Q 520 per night

Dorm rooms - From Q 140 per person per night

Planning a visit to Semuc Champey? Check out my Semuc Champey Travel Guide.

Let me know what you think in the comments! Did I miss anything? Is Zephyr Lodge a place that you would like to stay?

A Day Trip To Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey is not easy to get to. It is out of the way and isolated but that’s part of its appeal. Imagine a jungle landscape with green as far as the eye can see and a beautiful turquoise natural pool in the middle.

If you’re up for a 6 hour bumpy ride into the middle of the Guatemalan jungle then I would suggest staying in Lanquin for 2 or 3 days, relaxing poolside at Zephyr Lodge and doing a day trip to Semuc Champey. I had a lot of fun wondering around the small town itself, hiking to the hill-top church and eating at the local eateries around town.

The highlight of my time in Lanquin was visiting the Kam’ba cave system during the Semuc Champey day trip and putting on my Indiana Jones hat for a couple of hours. It was so much fun and months later I have not been able to stop talking about.

Book your own local guide for your Semuc Champey tour here and read on for advice on how to get the most out of your trip and some Semuc Champey safety tips.

Semuc Champey Day Trip

All of the hotels and hostels in the area will offer a tour to Semuc Champey. It’s really your reason for visiting Lanquin and if you have the time, I recommend this as part of any Central American itinerary. Besides the main attraction of Semuc Champey, there are several other side activities that get to do on a day trip.

Cuevas de Kam'ba

At the time of my visit Zephyr Lodge had stopped offering the cave portion of the tour due to safety and theft concerns so a group of us just booked a complete tour through another hostel. Feel free to ask around but prices were all kind of similar.

One of the funnest things I have ever done in my travels was exploring the Kam'ba Caves at Semuc Chmpey and I’m so glad I took the gamble against my hostel’s warnings. It really isn’t the safest attraction and you are in the middle of the jungle in Guatemala so if you decide to do this trip then I suggest you walk and swim slowly and take your time when doing some more of the riskier activities. Also when walking through some of the darker section, keep a look out for sudden drops from the roof. Watch your head, there are no helmets on this tour!

Once you enter the caves, you are given a candle to light your way. No modern flashlights here! At the entrance the guides will decorate you with war paint fresh from the walls of the cave so it’s a good idea to be nice so you don’t end up with a moustache! Our guide joked it was bat poop but I chose to pretend it was something else.

I was quickly submerged in the cold cave water as we started the two-hour trek into the cave system. This wasn’t my favourite part as I don’t like the cold but I soon forgot about my discomfort when we got to our first adventure. Climbing a wood and rope ladder contraption that looked as old as the caves, one-handed, while trying to keep the candle away in the other hand.

There were a few spots where I actually had to swim through the cave when I couldn’t touch the bottom but luckily there was usually a rope to guide us along. These parts where I was fully submerged is where I got the majority of my bumps and scrapes from the stalagmites poking out from the bottom.

For the extra adventurous, there was an opportunity to scale up a rock face and dive into a deep pool below. I tried my best but I couldn’t get my little legs up there to even attempt the jump. I had also had more than my fair share of Guatemalan tostadas by then so I wasn’t in the best shape.

Halfway through I got to try the most challenging thing I had done in weeks, climbing up a mini waterfall by rope. With my candle down my bikini bottoms for safe keeping I had to scale a small cliff with water rushing into my face while looking out for the best foot holds. This was super fun and super scary. If this is too much for you, there is a slightly less challenging rope ladder that you can climb off to the side to help you get up away from the waterfall.

Towards the end of the trek you get to slide down a natural waterslide through a waterfall into a dark cavern. One of the guides stayed at the top to show you where to slide and one was down below to make sure you landed safely.

The cave tour was honestly worth the 6-hour ride to get to Semuc Champey on its own and its something I would do again in a heartbeat. My friend and I kept talking about how much fun we were having and that we wished we could stay longer. You don’t get much more fun and adventurous than this.

River tubing, bridge jumps and a rope swing

Once you’re out of the cave it’s time to relax. You can look forward to floating gently down the Cahabón River with a beer in your hand and a huge grin on your face. But first I was invited to try out the rope swing into the river. This one hurts if you don't land perfectly straight! Tuck your legs in while you’re swinging and make sure to let go at the end as it won’t be pretty.

Once we had floated all the way down to the rickety old bridge and had climbed out, we were invited to do one last jump - off the 10-metre high bridge into the river below. I had had enough adventure for one day and lunch was calling my name so I just watched the brave souls jump in and then struggle to swim back to shore in the current. What an exhausting morning!

Semuc Champey

After lunch, we walked across the bridge and entered the park of Semuc Champey. At this point you can just head straight to the main attraction and just relax or you can opt to do the one hour long hike to get to the view point so you can see the whole effect of these beautiful natural pools. Hiking through the jungle covered in war paint and a bikini is one thing I never imagined I would do but there I was, living the dream!

It’s a muddy hike up and very steep but once you’re up there it’s really quite breathtaking. Once you’re down you can pack away anything you don’t want to get lost in the lockers provided and can finally jump into the pools!

Semuc Champey consists of a natural 300 metre long limestone bridge, under which passes the Cahabón River. Atop the bridge is a series of stepped, turquoise pools that are perfect for exploring. My guide took us to some of the more impressive parts of the pools including showing us where we could safely jump from and the hidden mini caves including one that you needed to swim underwater to get to.

Semuc Champey is really beautiful and my photos don’t do the pools any justice. If you’re in Guatemala I really hope you don’t miss this trip.

Where to stay

I stayed at Zephyr Lodge. Zephyr is a great place to stay in Lanquin but does have its downsides. If you have the budget, their private rooms are great and include your own balcony overlooking the jungle. The dorms are hit and miss. Comfortable beds but the dorms located near the bar are noisy at night until the party dies down. The shared showers have their own individual view of the jungle which is kind of cool as do some of the toilets. Everything is very clean and well maintained.

The infinity pool is really the attraction here. The pool has a stunning backdrop and a swim up bar. There’s a large sun deck for perfect days relaxing by the pool with a strong drink as well as a hot tub with very restrictive opening hours. Overall I recommend Zephyr Lodge. It’s a good place to stay for a couple of days, you can relax or party and have a good place to rest your head after a long day at Semuc Champey.

You could consider staying at a hotel or hostel close to Semuc Champey. There are a few that sounded really nice and it means you can visit Semuc Champey more than once or for longer than we did on the tour. One friend recommended Utopia.

Check out TripAdvisor for some more options.

Never stayed in a hostel before? Read my posts on what to expect and your hostel packing essentials. 

Other points

• A good option is to use this as a stop over point between Tikal and Antigua.

• Most travel agencies and hostels offer a shared shuttle service to Lanquin from Flores, Antigua or Lake Atitlan. Once you’re here an onward shuttle is just as easy to find. From memory, shuttles were a bit more expensive at Zephyr so if you’re feeling up to it you could walk into town and book something from another hostel or agency.

• You don’t necessarily need a guide to just visit Semuc Champey. You can arrange a ride in town or try to hitch along the main road. Entry fee to the site is approx USD $6.

• Stay safe by sticking to groups, not venturing off the path too far and be mindful of where your putting your feet and head in the caves.

• You can pre-book a local guide for your Semuc Champey tour through Get Your Guide.

What do you think? Are Semuc Champey and the Kam'Ba caves worth the trip? Let me know in the comments below!

You Might Also Like

Indian's Nose - Lake Atitlan

While visiting San Pedro for a few days I found out about a moderate hike to see the sunrise over the lake. San Pedro is one of the larger towns located on Lake Atitlan and is known as a party town. This doesn’t stop the travel agencies from selling volcano treks to the nearby volcano and the shorter but steeper hike to Indian’s Nose.

The Indian’s Nose viewpoint sits at at 2,863 meters looking over the pueblos of San Pedro, Santa Clara and San Marcos. Its name comes from the fact the profile of the mountain looks like a sleeping Indian with the viewpoint as its nose. The hike is 1.5 to 2 hours of a very steep climb.

While I was doing my research on how to get there and whether I should do guide or no guide, I found out about an expat called Matt Purvis who is a geologist and runs specialist tours up to the lookout and around the area. Matt has a B.S.c. in Geology and an M.S.c. in The Science of Natural Hazards and the selling point of his tour is that you can learn all about how the area was formed and the unique history that makes up the region.

You can do this hike at any time of the day but the most rewarding time is early in the morning so you can see the sunrise. Worthy goal but we did have to get up at 3:30 am. I was more than happy to head to bed early to get some sleep but unfortunately we were staying in a bit of a party hostel. Picture me brushing my teeth in my pyjamas at 8 pm in the sink that is next to the bar declining offers for “just one more drink!"

I managed to convince one of my new travel friends, Laura, to do the hike with me but had some trouble waking her up the next morning. Why can’t everyone be a morning person like me?

Our guide, Matt, was full of energy when he arrived, while a few of the group looked worse for wear, myself included. I had woken up feeling dreadful and wasn’t sure my stomach was going to survive the hike. I didn't know if whatever was going on in there wanted to go up or down and I think it hadn’t made its mind up yet.

The worst part was while they were feeling ill because they had stayed up partying all night, I was genuinely unwell. I didn’t want to be lumped into the hungover category! To avoid this I was determined to get up that mountain and not make a word of complaint on the hike up.

Once we had the whole group together we headed to the chicken bus stop up the steep hill in San Pedro.  Challenge #1 completed!

Challenge #2 was the chicken bus ride to the trailhead and after a few close calls, I managed to keep my small breakfast down.

The group gathered at the trailhead where Matt and his two local guides handed out flashlights. These were absolutely necessary because the trail is completely dark and quite slippery in some points.

We set off on some relatively flat terrain while navigating through the back of the town until we hit the start of the steepest hike I’ve ever done. For about an hour I climbed up the side of the mountain while simultaneously holding down my breakfast and praying that it wasn’t going to try to come out in a hurry through the other end.

I struggled to make it all the way to the top, determined to not look like a whingey baby and even tough I was one of the last people up there I was pleased to see the top. Matt and his guides has built a fire to help warm us up while we waited for the sun rise but after getting a few whiffs of the smoke I promptly threw up off the side and into the poor bushes.

The good news was I felt completely fine after that, I just wish it had happened earlier! I also got to experience the sunrise without feeling awful.

Success!

Once we had some coffee and a light breakfast and soaked in as much of the view as we could handle, Matt gathered the group together to go through his mini geology lesson.

From Indian’s Nose you can spot the 8 volcanoes of the region. Matt explained how they came to stand in a line and how Lake Atitlán was formed. He spent about 20 minutes going through the basics of volcano formation and the unique history of the region complete with diagrams and makeshift drawings in the dirt.

Lake Atitlan fills the Atitlan caldera, a huge hole in the ground caused by a massive volcanic eruption 85,000 years ago. The eruption has been named the Los Chocoyos event after the birds that now burrow nest holes into the extensive deposits.

To help bring the size of Los Chocoyos into perspective compare it with the eruption of some modern day volcanoes. When Mt. St. Helens in the US blew up in 1980, one cubic kilometre (1km3) of rock, lava and ash shot from the volcano. This seems small compared with the 1991 eruption of Mt. Pinatubo in the Philippines, which ejected around 10 km3 of magma, the largest in living memory.

These modern eruptions are dwarfed, however, by Los Chocoyos 85,000 years ago. A total of 270km3 of volcanic debris was thrown out of the caldera, covering Guatemala with ash and rock.

Ash from the Atitlan caldera can be found in the rock strata as far north as Florida and as far South as Panama and most of Central America would have experienced a darkening of the skies as the ash rose into the atmosphere. Crazy interesting right?

After his talk, we headed back down the mountain but via different path so we could experience a different viewpoint. We got to walk through some local maize fields and coffee plantations where one of the local guides also taught us about local medicinal practices and the interesting division of land. The parents divide the land up amongst their children and the children continue the tradition. What was once a large plot of land has now become many smaller plots.

I highly recommend hiking Indian’s Nose when you’re in the area and if you have the opportunity go through Matt! Hiking is so much more fun when you get to learn something new and unique to the area that you’re in.

“Matt Purvis
geotravelguatemala@gmail.com
+502 3168 8625”

What to take

• Definitely take a flashlight. Your guide might offer one or if you have a head torch, even better. It gets really dark on that trail.
• Wear some good shoes. Hiking shoes if you have them but anything enclosed is best. It can be slippery even just from the dew at that time in the morning so no flip flops.
• Wear layers. If you’re doing the sunrise hike then it will start off cold but that see hike will have you warmed up before you know it.
• A poncho in case of rain.
• Enough water, at least 1 litre.
• Some food for the top
• Have you ever had a tough hike that you almost couldn't finish?

You Might Also Like

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Tikal - A Photo Essay

A gallery of images from Tikal, one of the Mayan Cities in Guatemala dated over 1000 years ago during the Classic Period. I was lucky enough to spot monkeys and also witness the sunset from one of the tallest pyramids.

See if you can spot a famous shot from a Star Wars movie and let me know in the comments!

This post is part of my Top 30 in Central America and Mexico. You can also check out some more of my favourite sites and activities in Guatemala here.

You Might Also Like

Travel Guide to Quirigua, Guatemala

The ruins at Quirigua are smaller than some of the better known ruins in the region, like Copan in Honduras and Tikal in Guatemala but still worth at least a couple of hours as stop over if you’re heading between the Rio Dulce/ Livingston area and Antigua or Guatemala City.

I enjoyed taking my time to walk through the site and explore on my own. Also if you’re lucky you might get to witness a traditional ceremony taking place.

There is a small gift shop on site as well as a shop for drinks and snacks. Located near the entrance is a museum which you shouldn’t forget to visit.

A TRADITIONAL CEREMONY AT QUIRIGUA RUINS

What to wear

Depending on the weather, I would strongly suggest wearing your hiking boots/sneakers or shoes you don’t mind getting dirty. There wasn’t a lot of rain at the time of my visit but the grounds were still inundated with mud. You should be fine if you stick to the gravel path but where’s the fun in that! 

Also remember:

• insect repellant
• sun screen
• hat
• long sleeve shirt and pants

How to get here

You can stop here on your way to or from the Rio Dulce/Livingston area. You should be able to buy a bus ticket and advise them that you want to get off at Las Ruinas de Quirigua.

Note: If you’re planning to stay in town, request to get off at PASARELA de QUIRIGUA. It’s just a little bit further down the road from the ruins stop but it saves you having to walk until you find a tuk tuk.

Traditional Japanese meal at posada de quirigua in the smallest town of quirigua, guatemala

Where to stay

Besides the ruins there is really not much to do in town but if you’d like to take a night to recharge or take a break from bus trips, then I highly recommend staying at Posada de Quirigua. Check out their excellent reviews on Trip Advisor.

The Posada is run by the lovely, Japanese-born Masaki and you can tell instantly by the detailing of the posada that she has put a lot of herself into the rooms and the surrounding gardens.

The room comes with a delicious breakfast where you choose from a typical Guatemalan meal or if you've had enough local cuisine, you can try something new with a Japanese breakfast. Masaki also offers dinner for a reasonable cost and I can attest that every meal I had at Posada de Quirigua was delicious and creative. It was a real treat staying in a Japanese style posada and sampling Japanese fare while travelling through Central America.

This post is part of my Top 30 in Central America and Mexico. You can also check out some more of my favourite sites and activities in Guatemala here.

Why You Should Give Livingston A Chance

When I was deciding whether I should visit Livingston I read a lot of negative impressions of the town online. Many people felt that it wasn’t worth staying here for more than a few hours or a day in transit; that it was unsafe and dirty and; that it was full of hustlers and people trying to make money off you.

Information online was scarce and I worried that this would be another fishing village that would test my vegetarian diet once again.

I found the exact opposite. When I walked off the boat in Livingston I was asked by one young man if I already had a place to stay and when I told him yes, he left me alone. Walking out of the small port I was greeted with Garifuna music and I really felt like I’d found somewhere I could explore for a few days.

It’s a small town but there are several places to explore, including some great food options. The best part for me was just wandering around town, chatting to the local people and experiencing life in this very different part of Guatemala.

Livingston does have a problem with trash that has floated down river and collected here at the mouth of Rio Dulce but most of it is away from the main streets and there are still a couple nice beach areas that you can swim in to cool down.

Siete Altares

(Seven Altars)

Open from 6am to 4:30pm; Cost: 20Q

One of the best ways to spend half a day in Livingston is to visit the Siete Altares  site. When you get there you don’t need a guide so you take your time to walk to the waterfall and then have a picnic or just bathe in the cool pool below. There is also a jump off the falls that you can attempt if you’re not afraid of climbing up there.

It’s about a 1.5 - 2 hour walk there and then another half an hour to the top pool and waterfall. To save some time you can take a taxi halfway and arrange for it to pick you up again. You can also get a boat directly to the site and arrange for a pick up. 

The halfway point is Hotel Salvador Gaviota where you can stop for a drink or a meal either on the way there or the way back. There are beach chairs and hammocks for you to relax in along the shore.

If you have the time and if this is the only activity you do in Livingston, then I strongly suggest you walk the whole way there as you get to walk through the whole town and see life outside of the main tourist streets near the dock. You can always try to get a ride on a boat on the way back or get a taxi on you’re past the halfway point.

You will spot some trash on the beaches along the way which is kind of a downer but once you get to the site it is very well maintained. 

The Garifuna People

The Garifuna people are the descendants of West African, Central African and the Carib and Arawak people often found throughout the Caribbean. They speak the Garifuna language which has influences from French, Spanish and English so you might recognise some words every now and then if you stop to have a listen.

One interesting fact about the Garifuna people is that their name is actually derived from the Caribs who were originally called "Karifuna" which means the "Cassava Clan". "Garifuna" literally means "cassava-eating people".  Cassava or yuca is a popular root vegetable used through Central America and in the Caribbean. You can get a sense of the rich history of the Garifuna people by trying some cassava bread in town. 

Getting there and away

The best part about Livingston is that it is a convenient stop when visiting nearby Rio Dulce which is a popular stopping point for travellers en route to or from Honduras. As there are no roads in and out of Livingston, the journey is an experience in itself as you need to get a boat that will take you through some interesting sites along the way and you also get to see what life is like for people who live along the river.

Have you been to Guatemala and skipped Livingston? Or even better, have you visited and have anything else to add? Let me know in the comments below!