Big Corn Island Vs Little Corn Island
Little Corn or Big Corn Island, Nicaragua? Find out what you can expect from these two island gems in the Caribbean.
The Corn Islands in Nicaragua, Big Corn Island and Little Corn Island, are two Caribbean islands approximately 50 miles (70 kilometres) off the east coast of Nicaragua. They were once ruled by the British but are now considered part of the Autonomous Region of Nicaragua and are largely self-governed. The islands are still unspoiled by major development and cruise ship-style tourism compared to what you might experience in other popular Central American islands.
One of the charms of both islands is that they are very undeveloped. You’re not going to find any condos or big resorts here. There is one fancy resort on Little Corn Island that is way out of my budget but other than that you can’t expect much by way of accommodation or perfectly manicured beaches. The term "rugged" comes to mind, especially on Little Corn.
One question I get a lot of is which island people should visit when they go, Big Corn Island or Little Corn Island. Usually I suggest both since it’s so easy to visit together but I started writing this comparison to help see the main differences between the two islands. This turned into a massive post so to prepare you for the beautiful place that you are hopefully about to visit, here’s a video with some drone footage over Little Corn. Enjoy!
Contents - Which of the Corn Islands, Nicaragua?
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Culture and vibe in the Corn Islands
Big Corn Island is definitely less touristy than Little Corn Island. This was probably my biggest driver for writing this comparison because most people completely discount Big Corn Island as an option and head straight to Little Corn Island.
You can do very similar things on each island but the difference is Little Corn has a tight knit community of under 1,000 residents and Big Corn has about 7 times that. What that means is with the huge popularity of Little Corn over Big Corn and the fact that most of the tourist spots are along the main strip there will be times where you will look around and only see other tourists on Little Corn Island.
Little Corn Island is the more pristine and less developed of the two and is free from pollution by cars as there aren’t any roads. At some parts of the island you’re likely to find yourself without any light pollution at all. It’s the perfect place to star gaze or stumble around in the dark pretending you’re on a desert island.
Little Corn Island, Nicaragua
Since tourism is so low-key on Big Corn Island you could really go for days without seeing another tourist if you stay away from the wharf. There aren’t any souvenir shops or people harassing you to buy anything. Big Corn has a couple of long stretches of beach but the attraction is really the chance to experience the unique mix of cultures without feeling like you’re just another tourist. On Big Corn Island, people are friendly and usually up for a chat.
Prices on Big Corn Island are about 1/3 less than on Little Corn, including your day to day grocery items and restaurant prices. You do tend to get more variety by way of Western food in Little Corn. The difference in costs is negligible though, as both of the islands can be consider cheap when you compare it to tourist host spots in Costa Rica or Belize.
The Corn Islands could not be considered fancy. There are some nice places to stay but it would be very difficult to actually splash out if you wanted to, especially on Big Corn. This adds a nice element to your trip because most tourists you meet will have very similar travel styles to you. It’s impossible to walk away from Little Corn Island without making a bunch of new friends. I stayed on my own in a hotel room and still managed to have a great time with a bunch of people that I met regularly, either at the dive shop, one of the cafes or exploring the island.
Amenities on the Corn Islands
Little Corn's electricity can cut out unexpectedly and is available only from 2 pm to 6 am. Which means you need to be mindful about charging your devices when you can and if your hotel doesn’t have a generator then you probably won’t have wifi during the down time. If these things are important to you, there are a couple of cafes that have generators (Tranquilo Café and Desideri Café) and a handful of hotels offer 24/7 wifi as well.
On Big Corn you will find faster internet speeds and electricity 24 hours. Most hotels should offer wifi and some of the bigger restaurants as well.
There are no roads on Little Corn and of course no cars which is lovely and this along with the no internet make for an ideal place to really disconnect. What you will find, though, if you’re staying on the far east side of the islands and need to head to one of the two dive centres, for example, you could be looking at up to a half hour walk. Not really a deal breaker but it’s good to know. There are also no lights on that side, outside of the houses dotted around so if you’re wandering around after dark, make sure your phone is charged or you have a flashlight.
Big Corn has one main road that circles the island and a couple of smaller side streets. There’s a small bus that goes around both ways and also shared taxis are available. Both will cost you less than $1 to ride and it shouldn’t take you more than 10 minutes to get where you need to go. You can also rent a bike while you’re there either by the day of by the hour.
There is no ATM on Little Corn Island and most places do not accept cards for payment. Make sure you have enough cash when you’re heading over there or you will have to make a long trip to Big Corn to withdraw money. There are a couple of places that will allow you to do a cash advance on Little Corn but you’ll be charged around 10% for the convenience.
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Accommodation in the Nicaragua Corn Islands
Corn Island Hotels
Neither place has much on the higher end of the scale, with most accommodation falling under $100 per night.
Big Corn Island has a few more hotel offerings and a couple of smaller guesthouses. I strongly suggest Los Escapados Corn Islands if you’re into glamping or Hotel Casa Canada or Arenas Beach Hotel for a regular style hotel.
Little Corn offers more rustic style accommodation as well as a few hotels and one higher end resort at the far end of the island, Yemaya. When it comes to Little Corn Island hotels, I personally suggest Sunshine Hotel or Little Corn Beach and Bungalow for a mid-priced stay or Lighthouse Hostel for both private and dorm options.
Update: Yemaya Little Corn now offers rooms to fit all budgets so I highly recommend you check them out. Prices start from $109 a night and they get amazing reviews on Trip Advisor. I can’t wait to try them out myself so please let me know if you do!
Airbnb on the Corn Islands, Nicaragua
Airbnb is a great choice on both these Nicaragua islands. You get to choose your place before you get there and will still get access to some of the more locally owned options. There are single rooms, cabins and you can even rent a whole place with all the amenities right on the beach.
Use my personalised link for $35 USD or $50 AUD/CAD off your first stay. Check them out here.
Here are some great homes to check out:
The White House - 2 bedroom jacuzzi suite with access to large indoor lounge area, outdoor pool and outdoor terraces set within 1.7 acres of grounds.
Marlene's vacation home - Entire 3 bedroom home plus loft with two porches and air conditioning just 6 minutes walk from the beach.
Paraiso Beach Hotel - Located on Playa Coco, this cabana is just 80m away from the beach and includes breakfast.
Sunhill Villa - A modern house with a sea view located on top of Quinn Hill. Two bedrooms, two baths and big terrace create the perfect environment for relaxing the day away.
Los Escapados Corn Island
Eating - Corn Islands Nicaragua
The main difference between the two is Little Corn island has many more Western style options for meals, like popular Tranquil Cafe right near the wharf. If you’re ever craving a burger or spaghetti then you’re covered. They even have live music nights and it's definitely a fun place to hang out with all the perks of a typical gringo cafe. This is one benefit of the influx of tourists.
If you’re a vegetarian or vegan then Little Corn is going to be a haven for you. Cafes are usually well versed in special dietary requirements (thank you gringos that came before me!) and a couple places, like Rosa’s Restaurant even have a vegetarian section on their menu with yummy local options.
Food and drinks are pricier than over on Big Corn but if you’re careful you can still get some great value options. I personally ate at Rosa’s for breakfast and dinner most days. Breakfast with a main, coffee and a side of fruit was $3 USD and dinner with salad and dessert is around $4 USD. Rosa’s Restaurant also offers the popular local dish “rundown” as well as many great Nicaraguan classics.
On Big Corn meals are about a third less but you’re not going to get as much variety. You also need to consider that because the island bigger, everything is further away so the shared taxi or bus will need to be used if you want something across the island. If you like fresh seafood then you’ll be a happy camper as most places offer several dishes, including whole fish, lobster and shrimp.
If you’re vegan or vegetarian most places will still be able to accommodate you but be prepared to eat a lot of pasta and potatoes. As produce and fresh vegetables are harder to find on the island and needs to come over by boat, salads will be small and expensive.
Make sure you try “pan de coco” or coconut bread from one of the small, home based bakeries scattered around the island. This is a good place to stock up on things like buns, cakes and patties.
Pan De Coco and other treats from a home run bakery, Big Corn Island
Corn Island, Nicaragua Activities
Snorkelling on the Corn Islands
On both of the Corn Islands snorkeling is a popular activity. You can snorkel very easily on Big Corn Island but there are only a couple spots off Little Corn that I would consider easy to access. You can also arrange a snorkeling tour through one of the dive centres or your hotel.
I had a lot more luck with the bigger underwater creatures, snorkeling off of Little Corn Island but I probably didn’t give Big Corn as much of a chance since I was diving so much. The best snorkel spots on Little Corn can get very choppy so just be careful if you’re not a strong swimmer.
I suggest bringing along your own set of snorkel gear to avoid having rent them everyday. You’ll be in the water often so it’s a good idea to have a set with you when you go for your long walks along the beach.
I planned to do a walk around the island and got called into the water by a local who saw some spotted eagle ray. I spent the next hour snorkelling around the site and would have missed a lot if I didn’t have my gear with me.
Diving Nicaragua Corn Islands
Diving is a great option and it’s a good place to learn if you’ve never tried it before. I visited the Corn Islands in the off season so I was able to negotiate some really good deals for multiple dives but even during the high season prices are some of the lowest I’ve seen. The water is a constant 27-28°C (81-83°F) making for a very pleasant dive and visibility is usually great.
Some of the sea life you can spot are lobster, schools and schools of barracuda and other larger sport fish, eagle rays, nurse sharks, Caribbean reef sharks, and even some hammerhead sharks if you’re very lucky. I spotted a loggerhead turtle at one of the best dive sites, Blowing Rock, which is a must do if you can manage it.
I dove with Dos Tiburones on Big Corn Island and they were amazing. Super friendly, very knowledgable and they also took some shots while diving and sent them to me for free!
On Little Corn Island, diving is just as great. I dove with Dolphin Dive Little Corn Island and the staff were always lovely and made the dives really fun. For some reason, it’s also really easy to spot sharks breaching near the shore on this side of the island so keep our eyes peeled when wandering around.
Other activities on the Corn Islands
On Big Corn Island you can rent a bike to get around the island and it’s a super fun to explore. There are two big beaches and lots of little ones dotted around the island. There are usually baseball games and a soccer game on Sundays and they’re both a great place to spend time with the locals.
Hiking is also an option with some pretty hills in the centre as well as an art instillation at the top of Quinn Hill.
On Little Corn Island there is a lot less to see but you might be able to rent a bike and it is a good idea to spend at least a couple hours exploring inland where you’ll see where the locals live, shop, and go to school and church. An old, run-down lighthouse sits at the north-west of the island next to the huge cell phone tower. If you’re game, it’s claimable and you can get an amazing view from the top.
Kitesurfing has officially arrived to Little Corn where the east side offers a nice steady wind with an average of 18 - 20 knots.
If you’re into yoga there are a couple spots on both islands that offer practice in season. On Little Corn Island you could even try your hand at SUP yoga!
How to get to Corn Island, Nicaragua
If you’re wondering how to get to Corn Island, the most important thing to know is you have to get to Big Corn Island first before you go to Little Corn Island. You can either fly there via La Costeña Airlines or take a cargo ship.
Boat to Big Corn Island
I’ll get this one out of the way first. The boat option is really only for people who are flexible and have some time on their hands. The boats leave only once or twice a week from Bluefields and before that you need to take a six hour bus ride to El Rama and a panga to Bluefields. You’ll also have to factor in at least a night in Bluefields or El Rama. The cost is about $45 one way all up and it’s going to take you a minimum of 30 hours if all the stars align for you.
You also need to consider that the boats don’t run in rough weather or if they do go you could be in for a rocky trip. I met some people who had such a tough time that they decided to fly back instead. One poor couple got stuck on the boat for three days. There’s also not a lot of definite information on the trip so if you’re up for an adventure then check out this post with more information. It is from 2014 but it does have the most details of the route that I could find.
Flights to Big Corn Island in the small La Costeña plane
Flying towards Big Corn Island
Flights to Big Corn Island
Most major airlines should get you to the capital of Managua quite easily and from there La Costeña have direct flights to Big Corn Island. There are usually three flights a day to the Corn Islands. The last one leaves at 2:30 pm so if you arrive in Managua after 2 pm then you will have to spend a night there before you can fly out the next morning. I recommend either the Hilton Princess Managua ($$) or La Bicicleta Hostal ($).
Flight time is around 90 minutes including a stop in Bluefields. You are allowed up to 35 lbs (15.88 kgs) of checked baggage and every pound over is charged at $1.20 per lb. Check out La Costeña’s website for current prices and full travel info.
The boat to Little Corn Island
Once you get to Big Corn Island you need to take an open panga to get to Little Corn. From the airport take a taxi to the wharf. It’s less than 10 minutes and should cost around $1. The panga leaves daily at 10 am and 4:30 pm, returning from Little Corn at 6:30 am and 1:30 pm. The trip is about 20 minutes and can get quite wet and bumpy. Personally, I didn’t experience any issues except having to get up to catch that 6:30 am panga to meet my morning flight.
Once you get to Big Corn Island you need to take an open panga to get to Little Corn. From the airport take a taxi to the wharf. It’s less than 10 minutes and should cost around $1. The panga leaves daily at 10 am and 4:30 pm, returning from Little Corn at 6:30 am and 1:30 pm. The trip is about 20 minutes and can get quite wet and bumpy. Personally, I didn’t experience any issues except having to get up to catch that 6:30 am panga to meet my morning flight.
Top tip: Try to sit at the back for a more comfortable ride, the middle for a drier one and bring a couple of garbage bags to put your luggage in in case it rains or gets wet on the boat.
So….Big Corn Island or Little Corn Island?
Little Corn Island is beautiful, isolated and an ideal place to unwind. You’ll still have access to Western food and can have a lot of fun having a cocktail or three and partying the night away at the reggae bar or over a bonfire on the beach.
Big Corn Island has more to explore, with some hills and isolated coastal areas. You have a better chance of experiencing life in a small Caribbean town with access to great views and some long stretches of beach.
To be honest, I would strongly recommend you spend time on both islands. I budgeted for two weeks and I split my time evenly between the two and was glad I did. They’re both so different while sharing a lot of similarities and it would be a shame to go all that way and just see one side of the coin.
Got any thoughts to add on this comparison guide? Let me know in the comments if you've visited and which was your favourite spot!
Disclosure: Please note that some of the links included are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I may earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase.
Want more on Nicaragua? Check out some of my most recent posts below!
Somoto Canyon
The Somoto Canyon is one of oldest rock formations in Central America and has become one of the main attractions of Northern Nicaragua. The canyon is located fifteen minutes west of the city of Somoto and is also called "the structure" or “Namancambre” by locals.
The Somoto Canyon is one of oldest rock formations in Central America and has become one of the main attractions of Northern Nicaragua. The canyon is located fifteen minutes west of the city of Somoto and is also called "the structure" or “Namancambre” by locals.
The canyon walls run for five miles where the waters from the Comali River (from Honduras) and Tapacali River join to form the extensive Coco River. The cliffs have a height between 120 and 150 meters. In the narrowest area, they are situated just five meters away from each other. Between the small holes of the rock you can spot orchids, bromeliads and cactus.
The canyon was “discovered” by geologists in 2004 and since then tourism has ramped up in this tiny almost-border town and the Nicaraguan Government has wisely made it a Protected Area.
The Somoto Canyon tour
Somoto Canyon Tours is the only independent guiding group operating sustainable tourism out of the village of Sonis in the neighbourhood of the canyon. Somoto Canyon Tours started in 2008 to develop an enterprise to assist those who live within a few kilometres of the new attraction.
You can choose a trip of a variety of lengths depending on how much of the canyon you wish to see and how adventurous you’re feeling. I did the circular route of 6 hours covering 15 kilometres. It includes hiking, sightseeing, rock scrambling, wading, floating, swimming, boating, and jumps in both Rio Tapacali and Rio Camali.
You can also swim and do a small jump in the natural swimming pool below the confluence of the Tapacali and Comali rivers that form the headwaters of the Rio Coco, the longest river in Central America. I also got to check out the fruit bat caves that are only accessible on this trip which was a special treat.
Keep in mind that the water can get quite cold especially towards the end of the tour as the canyon narrows and less sun gets in. You should be able to warm up on the boat ride and walk back. I am a giant baby when it comes to the cold and I swore I would get hyperthermia in the last 10 minutes while floating downstream but I managed to survive until I got back into the sun and defrosted in our short hike back to the cabins.
I was asked if I was happy to have a new guide lead the small group of my two friends and myself. He didn’t speak much English but I speak Spanish and my friends were happy to be translated to. As with all the guides through Somoto Canyon Tours, he was a local guide and quite young, early twenties maybe. Even though he was young, he was very serious about making sure that everything went well and that we had fun on our trip. Too serious sometimes but we had a lots of fun trying to get him out of his shell!
The first Somoto Canyon jump
Free jumping
The highlight of the trip for me was the opportunity to jump from heights up to 20 metres. This is one for the very brave or experienced. I only attempted the 15 metre jump and I was terrified but was super proud of myself when I landed with minimal ouchies. Ladies, cross your arms over your boobs when attempting the higher jumps, just saying. At that height anything sticking out will get a big smack when you hit the water. Listen to the guide’s instructions and make sure to jump as straight as possible.
The best part about the guided tour is that the guide chooses jumps that get progressively higher. You start with a jump at the beginning of the tour of 2 metres. By the time you get to the end of the tour you have the choice to attempt the big 20 metre jump or a 15 metre jump. There's also a 5 metre option for those who haven’t worked up the courage yet. My biggest piece of advice for anything like this is to just decide to do it and jump in straight away. Don’t let your brain catch up to your feet!
Eeeeeep!
What to bring
You should only need a bottle of water, your camera and sun-cream. You’ll be in and out of the water so make sure to keep applying. Your guide will carry a waterproof bag in which you can place your items and where he’ll store snacks and lunch. You will be fully submerged in the water at some points so unless it’s in the bag it will get wet! Somoto Canyon Tours also provide river shoes which you can use if you do not wish to get your own wet.
Everyone gets a life jacket which is really important for safety reasons but also great to lay back and enjoy whit water floating when in the deeper downstream regions.
The accommodation
If you opt to stay the night you will be welcomed into Henry’s family homestead. There’s a farmyard full of animals to keep you company (and wake you up in the morning!) and you’re welcome to take part in the daily activities of the busy homestead.
There are cabins to sleep in that include private rooms and a dormitory with an adjacent toilet block. The accommodation is basic and there is only cold water in the showers but it is super clean and adequate for a night.
The family also offer a selection of traditional meals that include vegetarian options and you can preorder breakfast if you’re catching an early bus in the morning. I definitely recommend both the tour and staying a night here.
The "typico" served on the homestead - A Typical Nicaraguan Breakfast
Getting there and away
It’s fairly easy to get to Somoto by public transportation as long as you keep in mind that this IS the edge of Nicaragua. You won’t find many tourists here and it is one of the more remote tourist destinations. Along the way, I highly suggest visiting Esteli for a night so you can stop in to one of the cigar factories. You can set off to Somoto early in the morning, do a canyon tour and be on your way by early afternoon.
If you’re coming from Managua, you can take a bus to Somoto from the Mayoreo Market. These buses aren’t that frequent so I suggest catching any bus going to Esteli where buses leave hourly to Somoto.
You will get picked up from the bus station if you’re taking a tour with one of the tour companies but if you’re planning to go solo then you can take a chicken bus to El Espino (border with Honduras) and ask to be dropped off at the entrance to the community of Sonis. From there you will have an 8 kilometre walk to the trail head so be prepared!
If you’re the adventurous sort you can use this opportunity to continue on to the border of Honduras where you can head north to the centre of Honduras and possibly Lago de Yojoa or head east to the border of El Salvador. I did the former and it was a pretty easy transition. Connections were frequent and with a basic level of Spanish you should be able to find your way to any of the bigger cities.
You can also do the reverse by catching a border bound bus from Choluteca in Honduras.
My very serious guide
Somoto is a real treat in Nicaragua. By visiting and participating in a tour you are directly helping the local community and you also get to experience a different side of Nicaragua. I had a great time getting to know our very serious guide and the people in the small village community of Sonis. If you’re in Nicaragua and have a two days free then Somoto is a worthwhile stop and also a great border crossing option if you’re heading to El Salvador or Honduras.
This post is part of my Top 30 in Central America and Mexico. You can also check out some more of my favourite sites and activities in Nicaragua here.
Have you visited Somoto? Got anything else to add? Or been anywhere similar that I should check out? Let me know in the comments!
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Laguna De Apoyo - The Resort For Budget Travelers
Laguna de Apoyo is a crater lake said to be the result of Volcano Apoyo imploding on itself over 20,000 years ago. It is 48 square kilometres and the deepest point has been measured at 200 metres. It gets deep very quickly but is naturally warm and filled with volcano mineraly goodness. Like many beaches in Central America, the lake has a black sand beach.
While in Nicaragua I was desperate for a break from traveling for a few days. Long term traveling can take its toll if you try to pack too much in and at that stage I was feeling like I needed a holiday. I was indulging in some touristy pleasures in Granada when I learnt about a cool hostel that was supposedly like a resort for budget travelers at a small lake nearby. The dorms also had the best view of any dorm around the world! I booked myself onto the next shuttle.
You can go for the just the day or stay overnight. Once you arrive, there will be a staff member with a clip board to check you in. My group was separated into day trippers and over nighters and were led to the check in area. The hostel is very well run and I was checked in and shown to my bed within half an hour which is pretty great considering there was a lot of people waiting to check in.
I also noticed some travellers who had stayed the night and were hoping to book for longer! I did the same as soon as I saw the view and knew this was where I needed to be.
You’re given a token with an animal on it and this is what you use when ordering anything so they know what tab to put it on. The hostel is completely cash free until you check out! Which could be a good thing or a bad thing depending on how many $2 cocktails you clock up.
Rooms
Once I was taken down to the dorm I understood why it was so popular. I had heard that the view from the dorm was better than any other room and it was actually quite stunning. The dorm consisted of about 10 bunk beds and where the fourth wall should have been, there is just a large roller cage. This is great for keeping the room cool and also afforded spectacular views out to the lake. Dorms are just $10 a night!
There are also private rooms that are still quite affordable if you’re not into dorm life and everyone has access to all the resort facilities. A single room with shared bath is only $15 and you can get a double room with private bathroom for $32 a night.
If you’re traveling with a group they even have quadruple rooms! Check out their rates page for more information.
Day trips
The resort offers a day trip option which is great if you don’t have a lot of time but still want to experience lake life in Nicaragua. Day trippers can access all the facilities from 9 am to 5 pm at the cost of $7 per person. They also get free tea and coffee all day as well as access to restrooms and change rooms.
Eating and drinking
There are two spots where you can order and eat, upstairs near the check-in area has a great view of the lake and is more chilled out. A good spot for reading a book or getting lost in the view. The second and main area for eating is located right on the lake front. This is a more social spot where you can order your $2 mojito and take it right into the lake with you. No one’s judging here!
There’s a wood fire pizza oven and they do pizza nights a couple times a week. The pizza is actual some of the best I had while in Nicaragua so definitely give it a try while you’re visiting.
The menu is available to view online so check out all the awesome options. Meals range from typical Nicaraguan fare to more western treats, like my favourite the Blue Cheese and Walnut Linguine. Drool!
If you have any special dietary requirements you can confirm them with the staff before you arrive. Vegetarians and celiacs should be pretty comfortable here as I stayed 5 nights and didn’t feel like I was lacking variety.
Laguna de Apoyo
Apoyo Lake is a crater lake said to be the result of Volcano Apoyo imploding on itself over 20,000 years ago. It is 48 square kilometres and the deepest point has been measured at 200 metres. If you imagine the big cone that would have been left behind by the volcano you can get a good idea of the shape of the lake.
It gets deep very quickly but is naturally warm and filled with volcano mineraly goodness. Like many beaches in Central America, the lake has a black sand beach. This takes a little getting used to if you've never experienced it before.
Facilities
One of the best parts of Hostel Paradiso is their expansive grounds. It’s basically set into a slope (due to crater like shape described above) so there are lots of levels and lots of stairs. It’s worth taking 15 minutes to just explore the area to see what’s available. I mentioned to some friends that I was going to read my book on a hammock and they didn’t even know there was a hammock area!
There’s loads of water sports and other games available to occupy your time if you ever get bored of just lounging. These include: kayaks, stand up paddleboards, beach volleyball, beach badminton, pool, ping-pong, or traditional French boules.
There’s a chill out cabana with hammocks, couches and bean bags with a tv and dvd player. Great for rainy days!
There is a floating dock on the lake that you can swim to or grab one of the tires and float there in your own time. My top tip is grab a book or your kindle, wrap it in plastic bad or even better a zip lock bag and take it out to the deck. There is really nothing better than floating along on the dock with a good book.
I also enjoyed some night swims out to the floating dock with my new friends. Hanging out, sharing stories and laughing by moonlight in Apoyo is one of my most treasured travel memories.
There is wifi available but mostly on the very top level and sometimes in the reception area. Be prepared to be a bit off the grid, though, as the signal can be weak and cut out a couple of times while I was there. They’ve advertised recently that they have since doubled their bandwidth so you may be surprised!
The staff are super helpful and friendly. If you have any issues they were always happy to help. Especially the restaurant staff. They created a fun environment for all the guests.
I had a couple of friends who did the Spanish classes on offer and they really enjoyed it. The classes are in a cute little garden area on the property with lovely lake views so you still feel like you’re in paradise while doing your lessons
You can do single lessons or Paradiso offers a package deal if you want to stay for a few days and do lessons as well.
The lake and area
The best part of this hostel is the lake. It would be very easy to spend days lounging in a beach chair or floating along in an inner tube. The big surprise for me was that this is THE warmest lakes I have ever been in.
If you want to get out and explore the area there’s some great birdwatching and also monkey spotting. There are over 200 bird species that you can try to spot in Apoyo including 65 migratory species. Feel like getting out of bed early? Head out of the resort and to the right and you can certainly hear, if not see, the local howler monkeys.
There are also white-headed capuchins in the area, although, you would be very lucky to see those! On the Paradiso property I saw my first anteater in the wild so you should certainly keep your eyes open for all the wildlife that’s around.
There are several hikes to small towns in the area including Santa Catarina which has a flower and handicraft market and a stunning lookout where you can see the lake and Mombacho volcano.
Getting there and away
Paradiso has a shuttle that picks up traveler from different spots around Granada. It is $6 for a round trip and leaves around 10 am and 3pm every day, returning by 4 pm.
You can also catch a local bus heading to Masaya and ask to be let off at the entrance to Laguna de Apoyo. These buses leave from Granada every 10 minutes. The bus drops you at the entrance of the small town so you can either catch a taxi (100 cordobas aprox.) or walk for about an hour. Hitchhiking is also an option and you’ll see the locals doing it.
If there’s a couple of you, consider getting a taxi. You should be able to negotiate a fare for about $15 one way.
The important stuff
Paradiso Hostel
Email: paradisolaguna@hotmail.com
Phone: Mov: (505) 81874542 Claro: (505) 25203571
Skype: hostel.paradiso
Apoyo Tips
Make sure to book in advance
Bring enough cash with you for your whole stay
Try the tipico for breakfast - so good!
Meals range from $3.50 to $10
There are smoothies on the menu and you can add a shot of rum for $1 >.<
If you’re traveling during the off season (September and October) they have discounted rates for longer stays
Try to get up for at least one sunrise, they're amazing over the lake
Have you ever found a budget resort like this in the world? I'd love to visit more! Let me know in the comments below.
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That Time When I Stayed In A Party Hostel And Went To Sunday Funday
I like to have a good time but I also love to be in bed by 10pm. Usually. I had been hearing about Sunday Funday since Panama City and knew it was a pretty big deal. While staying at a backpacker resort in Laguna de Apoyo, Nicaragua, I met a lovely lady who invited me to her 30th birthday party that was happening in San Juan Del Sur. It was to be on a Friday night, followed by a weekend of festivities with the big event on Sunday at Sunday Funday.
I like to have a good time but I also love to be in bed by 10pm. Usually.
I had been hearing about Sunday Funday since Panama City and knew it was a pretty big deal. While staying at a backpacker resort in Laguna de Apoyo, Nicaragua, I met a lovely lady, Claire, who invited me to her 30th birthday party that was happening in San Juan Del Sur. It was to be on a Friday night, followed by a weekend of festivities with the big event on Sunday at Sunday Funday.
I happened to meet up with a couple that I had first met also at Laguna De Apoyo, Nate and Alex, and we started travelling around Nicaragua together The week leading up to the birthday weekend we ended up in Isla Ometepe, a volcanic island in the middle of a large lake. We opted to stay in an eco-style hostel outside of town and after a few days of being at one with ourselves we decided to give Sunday Funday a try. How bad it could it possibly be?
My Alaskan besties, Nate and Alex
Traveling from Ometepe to San Juan Del Sur involves getting the ferry across to Rivas, catching a taxi to the main bus station and then a chicken bus to San Juan Del Sur. Once we got to Rivas we had already had a long morning and were more susceptible to the suggestions of the taxi driver to pay him to take us all the way to our hostel in San Juan. On arrival to the centre of town though, he said he wasn’t willing to take us all the way up to our hostel and would only drop us in town, unless we paid him more money of course. We thought it was just another ploy from an entrepreneurial cabbie but it turns out that our chosen hostel is actually located at the top of a pretty steep hill and the road up was all gravel.
I remembered that the hostel had a free shuttle from town so we wandered around trying to figure out where to meet it. Luckily we spotted some people we had met in Apoyo and then Ometepe who were also going to the party. This happens so much when you’re backpacking and is even more prominent in Central America as it’s such a small region and everyone is sharing the best places to go and the best hostels to stay in.
Pre drinks!
They were having some drinks in a little bar and were going to catch the next shuttle as well so we settled in for our first drinking session in San Juan Del Sur! Turns out the shuttle is a pickup truck so we climbed into the back and headed up the steep windy road to our new home for the weekend. The Sensible Susan in me thought this was not really the safest way to transport a bunch of tipsy backpackers but these are the sorts of situations you get to experience when you’re backpacking and sometimes I have to remind myself to just embrace the good times and appreciate it for what it is. Looking back, some of my best experiences on this trip have been in the back of a pickup truck, watching the world go past and interacting with locals on their way to and from work.
The birthday party
Arriving at the hostel was a bit of a shock. We were not in Nicargaua anymore, Toto. The party had well and truly begun and there was a lot of people already dressed in flouro and leopard leotards, including several brave men. Oh, I forgot to mention that this was an 80’s workout themed party! Very important information so you can understand my outfit below.
Our 80's workout outfits
We weren’t prepared enough to have fun 80’s outfits with us but Clare and her friends had thought ahead and raided a few op shops before getting to San Juan del Sur. Yes, there are op shops in Central America. After checking in to the hostel and receiving our complimentary welcome drink we rummaged through a pile of questionable outfits and eventually picked out some of the semi-ok options that were left.
The three of us quickly settled in to the dorm room and our beds, got dressed and then head downstairs to join in the fun. As Claire has spent the previous two weekends at the hostel just getting ready for her birthday party by way of drinking as much as possible, she was pretty much Naked Tiger family and the guys at Naked Tiger had pulled out all the stops for her. There was only 80’s music, lots of little surprises throughout the night and a huge birthday cake that they helped Clare’s best friend organise.
It was a super huge night and I quickly became comfortable with my residence in a party hostel. These people were just like me! Only drunker. And even though I was drinking more than I usually would, I felt very safe and in control at Naked Tiger. The staff were pretty much functional alcoholics, required as they were, to drink from the first thing in the morning and make sure the party was always on at the hostel.
The Naked Tiger Hostel
The hostel itself is amazing. It’s basically a huge mansion located at the top of a hill with amazing views and a huge pool area. It’s seriously one of the nicest places I’ve ever stayed in and it only cost $12.50 a night. The hostel has in-house food service so you can order breakfast, lunch and dinner there along with the always open bar. There are several places to hang out, including a large balcony upstairs, the pool deck and indoor seating areas.
As I was settling into bed on my first night in the partiest of all party hostel, I also got to experience what seemed to be a regular event at the hostel, a guest throwing up in bed. Not to get too graphic, I will say that this person was on the top bunk and luckily the person on the bottom bunk hadn’t made it to bed yet. Very lucky. I got one of the staff from downstairs who came up, grabbed the mattress and just put it outside on the deck. He said the cleaners would take care of it in the morning and that was it. Another day, another vomit covered mattress. Poor cleaners! The spewer was nice enough to tip the cleaners in the morning but I’m pretty sure he wasn’t their favourite person for the rest of the weekend.
Getting Iced
One activity that was rampant throughout the whole weekend was getting “Iced”. This basically involves one person, let’s call them the “Icer”, hiding a bottle of Smirnoff Ice in a spot that the Icee would stumble upon it. This could be under your pillow, in your backpack or in the shower. Once you’ve found the Smirnoff Ice, it’s up to the Icee to drink the whole drink in one go. Besides the fact that Smirnoff Ice’s are disgustingly sweet, your bottle may also have warmed up significantly by the time you discover it. Now imagine being hungover and discovering one of these bottles at nine in the morning after a big night of drinking. Truly awful.
Me after getting Smirnoff iced for the second time in one morning!
Detoxing on Saturday and exploring the town
The next day after a late breakfast in the hostel, Nate, Alex and I decided to head into town to check it out and get away from the alcoholic influences of the staff and threat of getting Iced. San Juan del Sur is a pretty small town and it’s as touristy as I’ve seen in Central America. There are burger joints galore and loads of expat-run clothing stores with short shorts, tiny two-pieces and a backpacker favourite – flip flops, or thongs as we call them in Australia.
That’s not a bad thing really, as I don’t think anyone is coming to San Juan for cultural experiences, unless that cultural experience is the ancient rite of getting smashed, taking loads of drugs and then stuffing your face with chilli cheese fries the next day. You know, like the ancient Mayans did.
San Juan is a great place to relax into the comforts that a thriving expat community bring to town. I even found an amazing gelato place that needs to be experienced. It's called Superfrutto and is next to Hotel Estrella.
The beaches aren’t great in town, they're fine but if you head a little bit outside of town you’ll find pretty, deserted beaches to relax in and some beaches with great conditions for surfing. Besides the beach, drinking and eating, there isn’t a lot more in terms of entertainment so make sure you bring a good book if you’re going to be hanging out for a while. Naked Tiger had a great movie lounge set up, with a projector and loads of DVDs, along with a variety of games, a book exchange and of course the beautiful pool area to just lay around in.
Getting ready for Sunday Funday
On the morning of Sunday Funday, the official reps of the event show up bearing wristbands, official shirts and glitter! Once you’ve paid for the event, you can choose your favourite shirt design and then head to the decoration station. This was one of my favourite parts of the day! What begins as a calculated effort to carefully design your Sunday Funday body art masterpiece ends up with everyone drawing crazy designs on everyone else and glitter going everywhere. You will definitely find specks of glitter weeks down the track, perhaps as you’re traveling in a small river boat on your way to a remote jungle village, and will think back fondly on a crazy weekend.
An artist I am not...
Heading to the first party
The first pool party is located in small resort closer to town. There will be pickup transportation from the other two hostels to get there at different intervals. Once there you will be greeted by a row of bouncers who will check your bags to make sure you aren’t trying to bring anything too crazy into the party and mostly to make sure you’re not smuggling in drinks. Be prepared for your first shot as you walk in!
This pool is located right on the beach so there’s a great view of the surf. It was at this pool party where one unfortunate guy dived into the pool and hit his head. You know how something happens at a party and the people who most want to help are usually the drunkest and least able to actually help? Well imagine dozens of people who see this incident and start to fuss over this poor guy. Utter chaos! Luckily the organisers are obviously used to this situation and were quick to respond. Getting the drunkeys out of the way and tending to the poor guy who kept insisting he was fine and ready to party on while having blood spurting into his eyes from his head wound and streaming down his face.
This pool party was the best for dancing. The DJ was awesome and there was a dedicated dance floor right next to the pool. I felt like I had already had a great time several hours in but there was still a lot of fun to be had and two more pool parties yet to go!
Second hostel
The second stop in the travelling pool party was Naked Tiger. It was a good opportunity for some chill out time in the dorms, as only hostel guests were allowed in the upstairs section and you could consider indulging in some of the free alcohol that you might have hidden up there to avoid spending too much on the expensive Sunday Funday drinks. They also plan this as the second hostel so you can view the amazing sunset from the highest point in town. This was my favourite spot and definitely had the best atmosphere as I felt by then most people had reached that sweet spot of buzzed but not too drunk.
By this stage everyone had caught up and there was a lot of people to talk to. Even a socially awkward anti-socialite person like me managed to find some very fun and interesting people to talk to. I learnt that a lot of people travel to San Juan del Sur and Nicaragua just for Sunday Funday. There were a lot of people outside of the traditional hostel crowd you would usually get to meet. When going through my phone the next day I had a lot of Facebook friends that I couldn’t remember meeting and Whatsapp numbers that were just entered as: “N” or “blonde guy”.
Sunday Funday Shenanigans
Third stop
At this point it was getting quite late so some of us were considering just staying at Naked Tiger instead of heading to the last hostel, which is back in the centre of town. We eventually decided that we had to see it through and ended up at the last point – Pacha Mama Hostel. This hostel had more of a plunge pool rather than the bigger pools we had during the day but at this stage no one was really into swimming. There was more dancing and a lot more debauchery as the stayers were in the mood to party all night long.
After a couple of hours I decided to head back to the hostel with the next pick-up as they were less regular the later it got. On the way I met some fun people who were staying at the hostel behind us, Casa De Olas. This was also supposed to be a really cool place to stay and they have some little rooms located at the back of the property that’s worth checking out. I ended up hanging out with some guys at their little cabin and chatting until the early morning while swinging in thier hammock. Oh, how I love hammocks.
When I made it back to the Naked Tiger there were still a lot of people up and hanging out but the party was definitely more toned down. I got to bed by about 3 am and considered myself lucky. I met some people the next morning who had been out the whole night and even met the poor guy who had hit his head at the first party. He was not a happy chappy and didn’t enjoy everyone asking him about his accident. Poor guy. There were also a few people passed out in some unfortunate places and unfortunate positions.
So much glitter!
The morning after
I was ready to just escape and head back to Granada the next day but for those who are keen to stay and sleep it off, Naked Tiger offers a special deal for your fourth night free. Just consider how much you will actually save as you will have to have all your meals at the hostel unless you take the free shuttle into town of course. This might not even be an option though for anyone nursing a hangover.
I said a quick goodbye to my travel friends who had been with me for three weeks by that stage and Alex gave me a present and a big hug which almost made me cry. I jumped into the back of the shuttle, backpack and all, and tried to forget about some of the stupid things I had said and done that weekend. As I drove down that steep rough gravel driveway for the last time I thought about how party hostels aren’t all bad and how alcohol can actual help stimulate conversations for an introverted person like me.
That weekend is still one of my most treasured travel memories. Naked Tiger is actually a very lush hostel and if it wasn’t for the fear of constantly getting Iced I would have enjoyed a longer stay there.
Should you go to Sunday Funday?
I do not go looking for a party. Usually I like nice quiet chats in a cool bar somewhere with a small group of people. Sunday Funday was never on my "must do list" for Central America and it certainly isn't for everyone. When I ask myself if I would do it again, though, my answer is always yes! I had a great time at Naked Tiger and Sunday Funday and even though it can be viewed as hedonistic and a huge spend in an otherwise cheap country, it's also one of the craziest times I've ever had.
I danced, I chatted, I drank, I did other things that I won't mention and I had an amazing day. I would recommend you at least give it a try and if you hate it, then you've only lost $15. Chances are you'll love the experience and look back on it as one of the craziest pool parties you've ever been to.
Sunday Funday Tips
- Sunday Funday is on every Sunday!
- If you stay at the Naked Tiger or Pacha Mama hostels you get half price entry
- The event staff come to the Naked Tiger hostel the morning of the event at about 9:30 to organise payment and hand out wrist bands and shirts which saves you from having to go into town
- The event officially starts at 2 pm
- No need to bring a bag and definitely best to leave any valuables at your hostel. Just bring as much cash as you think you’ll need for drinks
- Definitely don’t bring your phone, unless it’s waterproof. There were a few people who were thrown into the pool!
- There's a BBQ at the second stop, Naked Tiger, with veggie options. Don't forget to eat!
- Although it’s a pool party, I wouldn’t actually recommend swimming in any of the pools. They get pretty gross...
- Have fun and don't think about it too much. It's a party!
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A Traveler's Guide to the Corn Islands, Nicaragua
The Corn Islands in Nicaragua are a special place to visit. I wasn’t sure which I would like best so I spilt my two weeks between the two islands evenly. I actually enjoyed my time on both islands and would recommend either but here are some of my observations between the two which might help you choose where to spend your time.
The Corn Islands in Nicaragua are a special place to visit. Even now, several months later and many islands later, I still look back fondly at my time there. It’s a bit out of the way and I think for that reason you don’t get the swarms of drunk backpackers like you can find at Utila, Honduras or Caye Caulker, Belize and there is still plenty of quality and inexpensive diving available.
I wasn’t sure which I would like best so I spilt my two weeks between the two islands evenly. I actually enjoyed my time on both islands and would recommend either but here are some of my observations between the two which might help you choose where to spend your time.
Solo travel on the Corn Islands
At Big Corn, it’s not as easy to meet other travellers because the island is quite big and all the hotels are spread out, there’s no central hotel zone. If you’re here with a friend or partner and just want to relax on a beautiful island without seeing hundreds of other tourists, then this is the place for you.
On Little Corn, even if you don’t meet people where you are staying it’s so easy to just walk down the main road and meet other travellers hanging out at the various bars and restaurants. The local to tourist ratio is definitely off here but you can still find some tranquility by going for a walk out of the main strip and exploring the island.
Diving
One common activity that many visitors to the islands share is diving! You will also meet so many people on your various dive adventures! The most popular dive site is a little way from both islands (40 mins from Big Corn and an hour from Little Corn), Blowing Rock. This site is incredible. As soon as you jump off the boat and peer down you will spot many large schools of fish.
Snorkeling
Snorkeling at both islands is incredible but I found it a lot easier to find sites on Big Corn. There seemed to be good snorkelling at many places around the island. On Little Corn there are five or six specific spots where you can snorkel and they may not be that close to your hotel. There are still, however, spectacular! I spotted a spotted eagle ray very close to the shore at one of the sites.
Local interaction
Little Corn Island has a very chill vibe. Every afternoon if the sky is clear, you can spot foreigners and locals alike taking some time to check out the amazing sunsets.
On Big Corn Island I really enjoyed catching the collective taxis and sharing in the conversations with spanish-speaking and creole-speaking locals.
Eating out
Little Corn has great vegetarian options. Even the little restaurants have a vegetarian section on their menu! On Big Corn Island I often struggled to get a decent meal with vegetables. I ate a lot of pasta while I was there and used my breakfast for dinner trick quite a few times. On both islands it’s all about the seafood so if you’re looking for cheap lobster, you’ve found the place!
Beach time
On Little Corn I had a couple of special places where I liked to swim and lie on the beach to read a book. As it’s a small island, you would think that it would be inundated with people but I was often surprised at having great stretches of beach all to myself. You can really live out your desert island fantasy here.
If you want quality beach time on Big Corn, you might have to do some walking or get a taxi. There’s only a couple spots on the island where there is genuinely nice stretches of sand. Although, If you just want to go for a dunk in the water then you can really do that anywhere.
Still need help deciding which to choose? Check out my biggest comparison guide yet:
Big Corn VS Little Corn
Getting here
There are two main ways to get to the islands, flying or by land and sea. Flying is by far the quickest and most painless option and from Managua it will cost you about $180 USD return with La Costena. It’s slightly cheaper to purchase a return ticket but if you get in touch with the office, you can purchase an open ended ticket. The flight is approximately 70 minutes.
By land and boat it will take about 20 hours but you can stop over in Bluefields. I opted for the flight so don’t have much experience with this method but I did meet a few people who braved the trek and heard mixed reviews. Most people got along fine while one couple got stuck out in the ocean for a couple of days.
Where to stay
Big Corn Island
On Big Corn I stayed at Los Escapados, which is run by a lovely Aussie guy and his sweet dog. It’s kind of like glamping, where you stay in semi-permanent structures but it’s all lovely and well taken care of. He also offers breakfast for a very reasonable price which includes yummy treats like fresh coconut and fruit and tamarind juice.
If you want something a little more up-market check out Hotel Casa Canada or Arenas Beach Hotel. Both are under $150 a night and offer beachside accommodation.
Little Corn Island
Because I visited on the cusp of low season, there weren’t a lot of accommodation options on Little Corn. A lot of the food and hotel option were starting to close for the rainy season which meant that I didn’t have a lot to choose from. I wouldn’t recommend the place I stayed, Sunshine Hotel. It was adequate and kept clean and included air-con and breakfast but it was on the pricey side and breakfast was the same thing everyday, rice and beans and eggs with a small bowl of fruit.
If you’re visiting during the low season I’d suggest visiting a few places around the island to see what might suit you. Some of the hotels also offer discounts with the dive centres on the islands. There are some very basic cabins on the far side that offer you direct access to the beach, just head around there once you get off the panga and be prepared to negotiate.
I heard some really great thing about the Lighthouse Hostel for the backpackers and Little Corn Beach and Bungalow for a mid-price place.
