My Mayan adventure in Sian Ka’an on the Riviera Maya
In a region that's known for nightlife and big theme parks, Sian Kaan Biosphere Reserve is like the antidote for those looking to experience the natural side of the Riviera Maya.
Riding down the bumpy dirt road in between a small forest of palm trees, thick enough to allow just small glimpses of the Caribbean Sea, I knew I was about to see something truly special. Cell service was long gone and although we passed the occasional house, there was no sign of modern life. I had definitely reached the end of the road.
Despite previous research, I had no real idea what to expect on my Sian Ka'an tour other than I'd be getting to see some wildlife and snorkelling was on the agenda.
My crash course on the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve was thanks to Kay Tours and I was lucky to have my new blogger friends from Claire’s Itchy Feet and Viva La Travelista along for the ride.
If you’re looking for info on what to expect in this less-visited part of Mexico, then read on to see what my experience in Sian Ka’an was like.
What is Sian Ka’an?
Sian Kaan means "place where the sky is born” in Mayan. Spend a day out there and you’re sure to see why.
Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve is the third largest protected area in Mexico, covering 5280 km² or 1.3 million acres. The National Park was established in 1986 and as well as being one of the most beautiful places in the Yucatan Peninsula, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In a region that's known for nightlife and big theme parks, Sian Kaan is like the antidote for those looking to experience the natural side of the Riviera Maya.
Sian Ka’an fast facts
Sian Ka'an makes up 10% of the State of Quintana Roo
Over 380 species of bird have been identified in the park
The reserve is also home to 115 mammals species, 47 dragonflies species and 318 species of butterflies
The following animals call Sian Ka’an home: manatees, howler and spider monkeys, crocodiles, Jabiru stork, ocelots, pumas, jaguars, pink flamingos, toucans and tapirs
Sian Ka'an has a variety of inlets, marshes, mangroves and coastal and in-land lagoons
The climate is tropical with summer rains and usually wettest in September
Where is Sian Ka’an
Sian Ka’an is found on the Caribbean Coast, about an hour south of Tulum and two hours from Playa del Carmen.
Who should visit Sian Ka'an?
Bird watchers, in particular, will love this tour
Nature and animal lovers in general
Anyone looking to get away from it all
This area is all about relaxing, taking in the scenery and getting the chance to see wildlife in their natural habitat.
What to expect on Kay Tours’ Sian Kaan Tours
Highlights:
Wildlife observation - birds, dolphins, crocodiles, sea turtles and manatees (if you’re lucky)
Guided snorkelling tour at the coral reef
Refreshments, fruit and snacks in the van
Lunch and free time at the fishermen village of Punta Allen
Free pictures of your day
Tour duration is approximately 10 hours
Sleepy Playa
Playa is not exactly an early morning destination and visitors to this little city are often surprised not to be able to find breakfast before 8 in the morning.
Nevertheless, expect an early wakeup because one of the benefits of a trip with Kay Tours is you’ll be the first boat out and the first one to get to all the sights (unless you’re a boatload of bloggers who take way too many photos and make the tour run an hour late. Oops.)
The little touches are all taken care of, however. Even though my day started early, I was pleasantly surprised to find fruit, breakfast bars and coffee on the van to snack on.
Once everyone was picked up, which doesn’t take too long since tours run with a maximum of ten people, we got a briefing of how the day would look from our friendly tour guide, Juan.
This is when we learned about Kay Tours’ brilliant use of aluminum water bottles to eliminate the need for plastic bottles. Each bottle already had our names marked, ready to be refilled throughout the tour.
We had ten hours ahead of us but the van was very comfortable and some took the opportunity to have a quick snooze. If you stay awake, though you’ll get some great views of Tulum and the coast.
Entering Sian Ka'an
Once you get to the entrance of the National Park, you’re sure to know, whether asleep or not. The bumpy road to our starting point of Paso Lagartos makes sure you're aware you’re not in Kansas anymore. This is what we came for - pure, unadulterated nature and Mexico at its best.
Along the way, we made a quick pit stop to stretch our legs and get our first glimpse of the clear waters of the lagoon. We took the opportunity to have a chat with the local fishermen trying their luck out at a conveniently placed bridge and they were kind enough to point out one of the largest crocodiles I’ve ever seen. And I’ve lived in Australia, the land of Crocodile Dundee!
Next stop was to our boat pick-up point at Paso Lagartos where a yummy sandwich awaited us. I certainly wasn’t about to go hungry on this tour. While the boat was packed, we got the chance to explore the coast on one side and the lagoon on the other.
This is when I got my first glimpse of the local wildlife, a sunbathing iguana. I love these guys, especially after my encounter at the Green Iguana Conservation Project in San Ignacio, Belize.
The boat tour begins…
Once we jumped on board and got settled, we got another briefing in more detail of what we could expect to see for the day.
First stop - dolphins! Who doesn’t love dolphins? And while I’ve been fortunate enough to see these adorable creatures around the world, this time, I got to spend time with what I thought was an adorable baby frolicking with who I imagined was his mum and dad.
Mmmmmm. Turns out he was a frisky teenager and all that frolicking was his idea of flirting. Kind of PG 13+ but that’s nature for you.
Another high point for me was Isla de Pajaros (Bird Island). This was a mangrove island covered with chatty birds of all kind. I spotted some pelicans, boobies (of the bird variety) and frigates along with lots of babies, thanks to the season.
Snorkel time
Due to being a protected area, swimming with the wildlife is against the park rules and not permitted. If you’re keen to get into the water, however, no need to worry. There are spots on the coral reef where snorkelling is allowed and our boat captain took us out there so we could don our gear and head underwater.
While I wouldn’t be heading back to Sian Ka’an to snorkel in a hurry (Cozumel holds the crown for the best snorkelling in the area), I was super impressed by how uncrowded the reef was. No getting bonked in the head by a rogue flipper here. You’re free to explore the reef at your own pace and not feel like you’re in the water equivalent of a Contiki tour.
Juan was quick to point out any interesting under-water critters and managed to spot a little shark hiding out underneath a rock. Get your best pose ready because tour guides are also equipped with a GoPro for underwater pics.
Once we were done snorkelling, we headed out to find some more wildlife. Overall on the trip, we got to see tons of birds, dolphins, sea turtles, spotted eagle rays, crocodiles, starfish and sharks.
Punta Allen
One of my favourite things while travelling is getting to see small towns around the world, a real example of what life is like for a lot of people around the country.
Our stop in Punta Allen gave me a chance to explore the town, chat to some friendly locals and of course, feed that growing hunger that accumulated after all that swimming.
Lunch was all local food, set up buffet style right by the water. There was a ton of veggie options, including fresh salad.
Once we’d had our fill, it was time to head back to the boat and sadly make our way back home. Our trip back was made a little bit more exciting, though, as we were trying to race an incoming storm. Our timing was impeccable as we got back to the van just before the rains hit.
What you should know about Kay Tours
One of my favourite things about Kay Tours is that while they do an amazing job at private tours, they also provide the opportunity to join small group tours. If you’re travelling solo or can’t make up enough for a full tour, they will help you match up with other travellers.
My second favourite thing: Free pictures! With Kay Tours, you don’t need to spend your day trying to get that perfect shot. Just sit back, relax and take it all in while your tour guide has you covered with pics taken from a professional camera.
Kay Tours makes a real effort to be as environmentally conscious as possible. From the use of an aluminum water bottle for the day to serving your morning coffee in cute little mugs, they’re not just paying lip service to being “eco”.
The tour guides are genuinely awesome. Kay seems to have handpicked his guides from the pool of the best guides in Mexico. Claire’s done a handful of tours with Kay tours now and has said that every single one has been first class.
Juan, our tour guide was attentive and considerate showing a level of professionalism that I don't see often. An example was when he warned us that we had a bumpy ride coming up and made sure those who get motion sick sat upfront before they started to feel ill.
If you’re spending a while in the Riviera Maya, Kay Tours also have tours to some of the popular tourist attractions including Chichen Itza, Tulum, Coba and even to swim with the whale sharks near Isla Mujeres.
Looking for somewhere off the beaten track? Kay Tours also visit Las Colorodas, the stunning pink lakes in the north of the region and Muyil, located deep in the jungle.
Budget travellers should make sure to check their website because they often have promos. There’s currently 20% off on offer for the Sian Kaan tour.
Kay Tours
Website: kay.tours
Email: contact@kay.tours
Outside Mexico: +52 19 84 1 43 23 47
Inside Mexico: 0 44 98 41 43 23 47
A Day Trip To Semuc Champey
If you’re up for a 6 hour bumpy ride into the middle of the Guatemalan jungle then I would suggest staying in Lanquin for 2 or 3 days, relaxing poolside at Zephyr Lodge and doing a day trip to Semuc Champey. The highlight of my time in Lanquin was visiting the Kam’ba cave system during the Semuc Champey day trip and putting on my Indiana Jones hat for a couple of hours. It was so much fun and months later I have not been able to stop talking about.
Semuc Champey is not easy to get to. It is out of the way and isolated but that’s part of its appeal. Imagine a jungle landscape with green as far as the eye can see and a beautiful turquoise natural pool in the middle.
If you’re up for a 6 hour bumpy ride into the middle of the Guatemalan jungle then I would suggest staying in Lanquin for 2 or 3 days, relaxing poolside at Zephyr Lodge and doing a day trip to Semuc Champey. I had a lot of fun wondering around the small town itself, hiking to the hill-top church and eating at the local eateries around town.
The highlight of my time in Lanquin was visiting the Kam’ba cave system during the Semuc Champey day trip and putting on my Indiana Jones hat for a couple of hours. It was so much fun and months later I have not been able to stop talking about.
Book your own local guide for your Semuc Champey tour here and read on for advice on how to get the most out of your trip and some Semuc Champey safety tips.
Semuc Champey Day Trip
All of the hotels and hostels in the area will offer a tour to Semuc Champey. It’s really your reason for visiting Lanquin and if you have the time, I recommend this as part of any Central American itinerary. Besides the main attraction of Semuc Champey, there are several other side activities that get to do on a day trip.
Cuevas de Kam'ba
At the time of my visit Zephyr Lodge had stopped offering the cave portion of the tour due to safety and theft concerns so a group of us just booked a complete tour through another hostel. Feel free to ask around but prices were all kind of similar.
One of the funnest things I have ever done in my travels was exploring the Kam'ba Caves at Semuc Chmpey and I’m so glad I took the gamble against my hostel’s warnings. It really isn’t the safest attraction and you are in the middle of the jungle in Guatemala so if you decide to do this trip then I suggest you walk and swim slowly and take your time when doing some more of the riskier activities. Also when walking through some of the darker section, keep a look out for sudden drops from the roof. Watch your head, there are no helmets on this tour!
Once you enter the caves, you are given a candle to light your way. No modern flashlights here! At the entrance the guides will decorate you with war paint fresh from the walls of the cave so it’s a good idea to be nice so you don’t end up with a moustache! Our guide joked it was bat poop but I chose to pretend it was something else.
I was quickly submerged in the cold cave water as we started the two-hour trek into the cave system. This wasn’t my favourite part as I don’t like the cold but I soon forgot about my discomfort when we got to our first adventure. Climbing a wood and rope ladder contraption that looked as old as the caves, one-handed, while trying to keep the candle away in the other hand.
There were a few spots where I actually had to swim through the cave when I couldn’t touch the bottom but luckily there was usually a rope to guide us along. These parts where I was fully submerged is where I got the majority of my bumps and scrapes from the stalagmites poking out from the bottom.
For the extra adventurous, there was an opportunity to scale up a rock face and dive into a deep pool below. I tried my best but I couldn’t get my little legs up there to even attempt the jump. I had also had more than my fair share of Guatemalan tostadas by then so I wasn’t in the best shape.
Halfway through I got to try the most challenging thing I had done in weeks, climbing up a mini waterfall by rope. With my candle down my bikini bottoms for safe keeping I had to scale a small cliff with water rushing into my face while looking out for the best foot holds. This was super fun and super scary. If this is too much for you, there is a slightly less challenging rope ladder that you can climb off to the side to help you get up away from the waterfall.
Towards the end of the trek you get to slide down a natural waterslide through a waterfall into a dark cavern. One of the guides stayed at the top to show you where to slide and one was down below to make sure you landed safely.
The cave tour was honestly worth the 6-hour ride to get to Semuc Champey on its own and its something I would do again in a heartbeat. My friend and I kept talking about how much fun we were having and that we wished we could stay longer. You don’t get much more fun and adventurous than this.
River tubing, bridge jumps and a rope swing
Once you’re out of the cave it’s time to relax. You can look forward to floating gently down the Cahabón River with a beer in your hand and a huge grin on your face. But first I was invited to try out the rope swing into the river. This one hurts if you don't land perfectly straight! Tuck your legs in while you’re swinging and make sure to let go at the end as it won’t be pretty.
Once we had floated all the way down to the rickety old bridge and had climbed out, we were invited to do one last jump - off the 10-metre high bridge into the river below. I had had enough adventure for one day and lunch was calling my name so I just watched the brave souls jump in and then struggle to swim back to shore in the current. What an exhausting morning!
Semuc Champey
After lunch, we walked across the bridge and entered the park of Semuc Champey. At this point you can just head straight to the main attraction and just relax or you can opt to do the one hour long hike to get to the view point so you can see the whole effect of these beautiful natural pools. Hiking through the jungle covered in war paint and a bikini is one thing I never imagined I would do but there I was, living the dream!
It’s a muddy hike up and very steep but once you’re up there it’s really quite breathtaking. Once you’re down you can pack away anything you don’t want to get lost in the lockers provided and can finally jump into the pools!
Semuc Champey consists of a natural 300 metre long limestone bridge, under which passes the Cahabón River. Atop the bridge is a series of stepped, turquoise pools that are perfect for exploring. My guide took us to some of the more impressive parts of the pools including showing us where we could safely jump from and the hidden mini caves including one that you needed to swim underwater to get to.
Semuc Champey is really beautiful and my photos don’t do the pools any justice. If you’re in Guatemala I really hope you don’t miss this trip.
Where to stay
I stayed at Zephyr Lodge. Zephyr is a great place to stay in Lanquin but does have its downsides. If you have the budget, their private rooms are great and include your own balcony overlooking the jungle. The dorms are hit and miss. Comfortable beds but the dorms located near the bar are noisy at night until the party dies down. The shared showers have their own individual view of the jungle which is kind of cool as do some of the toilets. Everything is very clean and well maintained.
The infinity pool is really the attraction here. The pool has a stunning backdrop and a swim up bar. There’s a large sun deck for perfect days relaxing by the pool with a strong drink as well as a hot tub with very restrictive opening hours. Overall I recommend Zephyr Lodge. It’s a good place to stay for a couple of days, you can relax or party and have a good place to rest your head after a long day at Semuc Champey.
You could consider staying at a hotel or hostel close to Semuc Champey. There are a few that sounded really nice and it means you can visit Semuc Champey more than once or for longer than we did on the tour. One friend recommended Utopia.
Check out TripAdvisor for some more options.
Never stayed in a hostel before? Read my posts on what to expect and your hostel packing essentials.
Other points
A good option is to use this as a stop over point between Tikal and Antigua.
Most travel agencies and hostels offer a shared shuttle service to Lanquin from Flores, Antigua or Lake Atitlan. Once you’re here an onward shuttle is just as easy to find. From memory, shuttles were a bit more expensive at Zephyr so if you’re feeling up to it you could walk into town and book something from another hostel or agency.
You don’t necessarily need a guide to just visit Semuc Champey. You can arrange a ride in town or try to hitch along the main road. Entry fee to the site is approx USD $6.
Stay safe by sticking to groups, not venturing off the path too far and be mindful of where your putting your feet and head in the caves.
You can pre-book a local guide for your Semuc Champey tour through Get Your Guide.
